Fattoria Coroncino – Staffolo, Marche
Fattoria Coroncino was founded by Lucio Canestrari & his wife Fiorella in 1981 and have been pioneering quality Verdicchio ever since. The estate is now run by their son Valerio, who has grown with the vines and was a constant presence alongside Lucio’s up until he suddenly and sadly passed away at the end of 2021. He will be missed by all but through Valerio the strides he made, his teachings and opinions will persist. Their three vineyards comprising 9.5 ha of their total 17.5ha all lie within 3km of the winery, producing 50,000 bottles per year from their own grapes. All wines are Classico Superiore, from the heart of the traditional zone and the lowest yields. They farm organically, grassing the vineyards since 1983, integrating insects and vine health since 1992 and no fertilizers since 1995.In Lucio’s words – “We are proud to say that we are not part of any winecentric association; we don’t believe in any dogmas and we pride ourselves in our use of common sense, in harmony with nature”. They are one of the saviours of Verdicchio, rescuing this region’s wines from a downward spiral of overproduction and a lack of attention that saw its qualities squandered. The Marche DOC of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is centred on the town of Jesi, Province of Ancona and takes its name from the ancient fortifications of medieval times. Brushed with cooling breezes up and down the river valleys, onshore to begin with and offshore later in the day, this is ideal white wine territory.
The Il Bacco is a full-frame, full-bodied wine, full of minerality with a broad tropical palate and the beguiling green tinges and almond finish that truly characterise great Verdicchio. The Il Coroncino is from grapes grown on the clay soils of two vineyards, grapes that taste of the land with ripe melon, honey and herbs with wet river-stone and roast almonds on the finish. The Gaiospino comes from a rigorous selection of the healthiest fully-ripe grapes on the estate’s steeply-terraced, southwest facing Spescia vineyard. It is richly textured and full of aromas like a breeze of sun-dried herbs with tropical and pure white fruits, balance, acidity and a strong core. The Stragaio is also from this crossing and is aged for 2 years in barrique. The Ganzerello is 95% Sangiovese and 5% Syrah, aged for 2 years in large format oak and is soft, seductive and immensely drinkable.