Stefano is the best kind of grower, genial, easy-going and talented. His grasp of English is not as good as some, so he hedges his bets every time with a hearty laugh and a slap on the back, just in case a joke has been made. Nearly all the wines here are made with a percentage of dried grapes, putting a unique stamp on varieties from other regions. This does create quite a bit more work – essentially in each wine, two wine's worth of grapes are used. One, harvested a bit earlier and left to dry, made with body and power in mind. The other is made to bring freshness. These are vinified separately and then combined in varying proportions until the right balance is achieved. In 2008, this was generally 30% dried grapes, but in hot years like 2003 none is used at all – the grapes were already quite raisin-like.
Campedelli Amarone de Valpolicella ‘Marion’ 2016
Traditionally made from Corvina and Rondinella, grapes havign been dreid for a few months before agind in large oak. Sweet dessicated cherry fruit, tobacco and herbs and a fien lacing of chocolate. Balance is a key part of Stefano’s wines and this marries that hallmark with some warm fruits.
“The 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella is a sleeping giant, wafting up with a hauntingly dark and layered display of crushed stone, black cherry, lavender, dusty earth, animal musk and hints of Indian curry. It’s deeply textural, velvety, yet light on its feet, with penetrating dark fruits offset by zesty spiced orange and minerals, as fine tannins slowly saturate. It finishes structured with cheek-puckering tension, resonating on notes of red currant with hints of baker’s chocolate. There’s so much power here and depths unseen, which will take time to fully emerge. If tasted blind, you’d be hard pressed to call this out as Amarone, and I mean that in the best possible way.” 2024 – 2036
95 Points, Eric Guido, Vinous, Feb 2021