Huet Le Mont Moelleux 2022

This eight-hectare vineyard was purchased by Gaston in November 1957 and is situated below Le Haut Lieu and abuts the vineyards of Domaine Foreau. As with Le Clos du Bourg, it is positioned on the first coteaux, around two kilometres further to the east although the soil here is more profound and the vines need to delve deeper to access the honeycomb coloured tuffeau below. Regardless of the style of wine produced, Le Mont is usually the last vineyard to be picked, the retarded ripening is reflected in the maturation of the wines as they are usually the last to develop, even if they remain very long lived.
At the foot of the vineyard is a semi-troglodyte house, which became the home of the Pinguet’s. Cut into the honey-coloured rock at the back are the old cellars where the wines would have once been matured.
To the side is an old cave with two ancient wooden presses, last used in 1935. It is from here that one takes the 62 stairs cut in the rock in 1968 to access the main Huet cellar. At one point in time, Le Mont was also home to the gendarmes, and within one cellar in the house there is an old holding cell.

The defining, classic Moëlleux (best translated as meaning ‘full of marrow’, this term refers more to the textural quality of a wine than the sweetness) will have approximately 30 grams of residual sugar.

“The 2022 Le Mont Moelleux is a medium-sweet, tender style that is just so welcoming and appealing. It is the quiet type that doesn’t show off. It offers breadth without weight, which I always like about the Huet wines – they’re like clouds of Chenin floating over your palate. A fine floral and fruity fragrance reminiscent of lilac, pear and pineapple lingers off the tranquil finish. While the acidity in 2022 is a little gentle, it still has enough tension to sweep up the wine and hold it all together. A little more length and line would elevate it further. (51g/L RS, in case you’re interested).” 94 points, Rebecca Gibb, Vinous, June 2023