Founded almost a century ago, Domaine Huet is arguably Vouvray's most famous name. An early adopter of biodynamics, Huet was certified in 1993 when even organic producers were considered hippies. Production of wine styles (from dry to sweet) varies depending on the seasons, which are becoming more erratic every year. For example, in 2018, around 85% of production was sweet, making the rare sweet cuvée Constance possible. The original vineyard, Le Haut Lieu, is a clay-based site first purchased in 1928 by founder Gaston Huet. It now covers 15 hectares and remains the most fruit-forward of the estate’s sites. The addition of Clos du Bourg came in 1953. It’s a real clos, surrounded by walls and is a little warmer than the other sites, making it the first of the Huet vineyards to be picked. Conversely, the vineyard Le Mont, which was acquired in 1957, has a greenish-yellow clay soil with flint scattered throughout, making it a cooler site. It is picked the latest and takes time to come around in the bottle.
Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Demi-Sec 2022
13.5% abv
In 2022, the wines at Domaine Huet are gentle due to their slightly lower acidities, making them open and approachable. It was a vintage of patience as there was so little water, and the vines progressed slowly; even at harvest, some bunches were still hard, so there was a lot of crop sorting.
The original vineyard site, purchased by Gaston Huet in 1928 ws just 3 hectares, it now covers 9 hectares. As the name suggests, the house and the vineyards are situated on a plateau with a slight south facing gradient at one of the highest points of the appellation.
The Le Haut Lieu itself consists of 3 to 4 metres of heavy clay soil mixed with chalk, known locally as aubuis, which lies over a bed of limestone. It is this limestone subsoil that proves to be the constant link between the three vineyards owned by Huet. It is the vines proximity to the porous, yellow tuffeau that is responsible for the overriding style of wines produced from each of the sites.
This friable rock is from the Turonian Age and was laid down during the Cretaceous Period, which dates them at between 67 and 137 million years. The tuffeau is made up of fragments of bryozoa, sea creatures that lived in vast numbers in tropical oceans which, when mixed with fragments of mica and grains of sand then compacted, gives notable physical and chemical properties to the soil. The chalky, brittle quality makes it ideal for excavation; and the reason why Vouvray is made up of a labyrinth of caves and troglodyte dwellings. Of the three sites, Le Haut Lieu regardless of their style or sweetness, tends to offer the most precocious of wines, although this should be seen as a relative statement given that they are still capable of lasting many decades.
It is normal in most vintages to produce a demi-sec, literally meaning half-dry. This much maligned category is recognised by the purists as the defining style of the appellation. On average the wines will have about 18-20 grams per litre of residual sugar (although like with sec, these tend to be rising) but retain perfect poise and balance due to the acidity.
The 2022 Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec is juicy, though never generous, but still a comforting Vouvray that remains focused; there’s sufficient tension from the acidity despite the season’s warmth. Welcoming and friendly from the off, there’s fine fruit here with a pretty talc note. It has a sense of persistence and presence that elevates this wine from purely a fruity Chenin. Really charming. 91 points, Rebecca Gibb, Vinous, June 2023
- Reference #:
- 20676
- Strength
- 13.5 ABV
- Bottles per Case
- 6 bottles
- Grapes
- Chenin Blanc
- Organic
- No
- Biodynamic
- Yes
- Vegan
- No
- Vegetarian
- No
- Sparkling
- No